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Sunday, December 4, 2011

Port-au-Prince, Haiti: In the beginning...



 Written: December 2011 Port-auPrince, Haiti 

From my office-container on the MINUSTAH peacekeeping base the helicopters fly over head all day, something to be expected when we are located at the end of the airport run way. The sounds is exhilarating and I imagine I am in a MASH movie. When a plane soars overhead its roar is deafening causing the container to shake and rattle. Peacekeeping soldiers with rifles from around the world, each sporting the flag of their home country on their shoulder, roams the city and the base by the truck load or in training exercises. At first the sight of so many weapons was daunting but the soldiers all smile and nod through their terminator dark glasses. I admit, I love it. ;-) 

My accommodation is also a container, unfortunately not as nice as my office. The first week the bed mattress felt as if it was deteriorating mattress with sheets too old to want to get under. (since I have new sheets and a new shower curtain. My friendly container police also flipped my mattress so I am comfy again). The bathroom floor is less than desirable to step on barefoot but I am grateful for a safe place to sleep knowing that several Haitian woman living in the IDP camps are raped every night.The container-hotel compound is all gravel and the parking lot full of giant  'UN' marked 4x4 cruisers with the rhino type antennas on top. An outdoor bar is being built and there is a pool for the predominantly armed forces and police personnel living there which makes for a frat like party on the weekends, except when the children from the visiting orphanages come to play in the pool. This morning we have more than 30 babies and toddlers here and my heart gushes as three curl up in my lap, while two hang onto my legs, yearning for a cuddle and cooing voice. In these moments all my motherly instincts blossom and I want to take them home to care for and cherish forever. 

At first I thought I would be moving to the suburbs, the rich area of town called Petion-Ville where most foreigners live, but at present my commute to work is only 10 minutes. Since out new office is not going to move there as planned before next February I have decided to stay here at the container hotel where I have access to a gym and the pool and most importantly a nice group of friends. 

I am happy and feeling good about the decision to come here. My colleagues are wonderful, bless them. The office has designated me a driver for the first month. His name is Ricardo, 26 years old, super kind and concerned about my safety. We try to understand each other (my French is coming back faster than I thought it would, thank goodness) and laugh together when we both start bobbing our heads when the radio blares hip-hop, reggae and R&B music. 

Food is imported from the USA so the MINUSTAH base's restaurant called the DECK is excellent. Usually we order to our containers but I do escape to the deck when I can for the sushi, salads and even Lebanese plates. The Deck is also a place to 'people watch' on base. We have a little shop on base filled with products imported from the USA, cereals, drinks, canned foods, peanut butter and nutella (gotta get a bottle of that!) and small electronics. I bought a case of water and a 'UNITED NATIONS' adorned towel. So although the life is restricted it is more familiar and in this regard much easier than was Angola.
Downtown was seriously destroyed by the 2010 earthquake. and the massive camp where 600,000 people are still living. Seeing the Presidential palace with its roof fallen in was quite the shocking site. Strangely near the camps among the street stalls two peacocks were on display. What in the world are India's birds doing here? and goodness forbid to think they might be eaten! But no, apparently they are purchased by the rich Haitians' and left to roam their gardens.

At the end of the row of UNICEF containers, from where you can see the hills in the distance behind the airstrip is an abandoned cargo plane. Shrubs are growing around it and out of the windows. Its' silhouette in front of the evening sunset is nothing less than captivating, romantic in a way, in my Haitian adventure. Orange, red and gold streak the sky as of 5:30pm and the horizon is clouded by the piles of dust rising from the UN monster vehicles as we go back to our containers and rest for the next day. 

Sending love from Port-au-Prince, on the Caribbean island of Hispanola!

1 comment:

  1. You are such an inspiration to all of us, able-bodied or not. Love being a part of your adventures. Keep 'em coming!

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